Atsitsa & the Green West Coast
A guide to Atsitsa and the green, pine-fringed west coast of Skyros, where pines meet deep-blue water. The beaches, the retreat heritage, and why the drive is worth it.
Last updated 29 June 2026
Cross to the other side of Skyros and the island changes character entirely. The east is sand and the white town; the west is pine and rock, greener, quieter, and for many the most magical coast of all.
In short: The west coast of Skyros, centred on Atsitsa, is green and pine-fringed, where the trees run almost to the water and the sea turns a deep blue by afternoon. It’s rockier and wilder than the eastern sands, with a long wellness-retreat heritage and a handful of remote coves. You’ll want a car or scooter to reach it.
Atsitsa
Atsitsa is a rocky, wooded bay where Aleppo pines shade the shore and the water deepens to a brilliant blue as the day goes on. It is swimming for those who like a little wildness, no long sweep of sand, but clear water, shade from the pines, and a deep sense of calm. A small seasonal taverna or two keep you fed. Atsitsa is also the historic home of the island’s slow-living and wellness retreats; more on that in our guide to the wellness heritage of Atsitsa.
Beyond Atsitsa: Pefkos and Agios Fokas
Further along the west and south-west coast, Pefkos offers fine sand framed by pines, gentler and more open than Atsitsa. And for the true explorer, the tiny, remote beach of Agios Fokas is harder to reach and all the more rewarding for it.
Making the most of it
The west repays a little effort. Bring water and shade, take the rough roads slowly, and time your visit for the afternoon and sunset, when the light on the pines and water is at its most beautiful. It’s the perfect counterpoint to a morning on the beaches below Chora.
FAQ
How is the west coast different from the east? The east has long sandy beaches below Chora; the west is greener and rockier, with pines running down to deep-blue water and far fewer people.
Do I need a car to reach Atsitsa? Effectively yes, it’s on the far side of the island, reached by winding roads. A car or scooter is the practical way.
When is Atsitsa at its best? In the afternoon and at sunset, when the water deepens to blue and the light through the pines is loveliest.
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